Name: Fanatec CSL DD 5 Nm
Brand: fanatec
SKU: 634f105a50cfda8ca9c454cb
Rating: 0.0 (1 reviews)

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Will The New Fanatec CSL DD Wheel Be Strong Enough ? | Testing 5NM with the DD1

 Recently, Fanatec announced a new very small CSM DD wheel, and with this news they've shook the foundations of the sim racing wheelbase and force feedback wheel industry.

 But, one question has arisen from lots of people, and that is in regards to its peak torque out of the box of 5Nm in its base configuration, or 8Nm with the upgraded power supply unlock option that they will be selling.

 So in this video, through the power of the Fanatec DD1 and a webcam on top of it, and setting the DD1 up to the same torque values of the new CSL DD, I am going to demonstrate what 5Nm feels like, and I'm also going to talk about why focusing too much on the peak torque is not necessarily the whole picture of things.

 So, either way, make yourself a cup of tea, fasten your seatbelts, and get ready for another GamerMuscle video.

 If you enjoy our content and want to support the channel, use the GamerMuscle Fanatec store link when buying fancy pants sim racing equipment. Link is in the description. Thank you very much for all the teabags.

 So, as you can see here, we have the display on the wheel, which is really handy with the DD1. You can actually see how many newton meters are coming out, and this is how I've set the wheel up so that we are getting 5Nm max out of the wheel.

 Now, before I get driving with this swanky BMW drift car in a Seto Corsa, which is probably one of the best sims at the moment for drifting and demonstrating wheel rotation speeds, what have you, before I get driving, what I need to point out and say is when it comes to direct drive wheel motors, it's not just a case of the power in terms of how good they are as force feedback devices.

 So, if you read through the release information for the new CSL DD, one thing that you'll notice is the fact that they draw attention to them using a carbon shaft, a specific design to get the most out of the motor in terms of force feedback fidelity.

 Also, when it comes to any DD wheel or any motor, there's a lot of variation in terms of how the copper is wound on the motor, how the power is delivered to the motor, the type of magnets in it, the base configuration of the internals of the motor.

 There's loads and loads of variables, which can basically mean that a larger motor is not necessarily better or worse than a smaller motor and vice versa.

 A good analogy would probably be if you've got very high quality headphones, you can hear as much audio detail as if you've got a giant hi-fi. However, if you've got a giant hi-fi, you will get chest shaking bass, like bass that shakes the entire room, which you just won't get that from small headphones.

 So you could probably think about the new DD or the CSL DD in that perspective, in that it won't have the overall sort of max strength, if you will, for that really pushing against 20 newton meters or 15 newton meters of force.

 But it can still, if designed correctly and implemented properly, it can still have a lot of fidelity detail for you to tell what the car is doing and for you to respond and react to it, and also potentially have the wheel rotation speed there for you to get the joy of letting the car just correct itself.

 Another thing worth mentioning in that context as well is this is one of the reasons why the Logitech G25 was such a good force feedback wheel for so long, even when the T500 came out.

 I personally bought a T500, I've reviewed it on the channel years ago when I had hair, and I just sent it back because the motor in it, though bigger and stronger, didn't have the response that the two tiny itty bitty motors in the Logitech G25 had.

 So when it came to precisely reacting to what the car was doing, quick twitches and what have you, the G25 is actually better than the T500.

 Obviously it would depend if you're driving road cars and formula cars and what you're driving is to what you prefer and what type of driving you're doing, but that is just an example of why smaller motors can actually be better than larger motors.

 It's just not a clear cut case of one is better than the other, but in the context of DDs, you're only going to get that strong, strong power push type resistance if it can output that resistance.

 So I'm not saying there's no benefit in high strength force feedback, there definitely is. I personally like my force speed at around about 12 Nm or so.

 I'm just trying to give you a good overview picture of things to try and eliminate the confusion, but probably make people more confused in the process. Good job myself.

 So with that out of the way, that sort of disclaimer out of the way, let's just make sure that the wheel is stopping at 5 Nm and it is about 4.5 there, 4.5 Nm.

 I could turn the force feedback up a little bit more. 4.7, yeah okay, so we are, that is, if I brake and turn, there you go, 5.5, that's around 5 Nm, give or take, it's very close to it.

 There's a little bit of variance there because I can't totally clamp it, but, so with the drive, let's do some driving with that on the screen so you can see what's going on there.

 But 5 Nm, and this is with the, this is with the Fanatec Universal Hub and then my OMP, OMP Tresento wheel rim, which is a really nice, you know, real car steering wheel.

 It's quite a lot of, a lot of track day drivers use the OMP Tresento, so it's just a really good all round steering wheel.

 It's quite heavy with the Fanatec Club Sport Universal Hub, it's quite a heavy wheel rim and I'll talk about how that affects force feedback and wheel input as well in a minute.

 But with that, you can see here, this is quite happily allowing me to do, we've got the wheel set to 900 degrees of rotation.

 The car, the wheel is staying very much with the sim, you can see the rotational speed there, if I basically just let go of the wheel.

 Let's go, I'll put this face, my face cam back on here, so you can see how quick the wheel is.

 Great drifting there GamerMuscle, good job.

 So this is one of the things with direct drive wheels over belt driven wheels, is that even if you are, have a wheel that's the same power output, it doesn't necessarily mean that the rotational, maximum rotational speed is the same.

 And again, the nice thing with a direct drive wheel over any belt driven wheel, is the subtle fidelity you get when it comes to just feeling what the tyres are doing through the force feedback and the fall off of grip.

 And a big advantage of a direct drive wheel over a non-direct drive wheel, is that because it has less gubbins in there, you're not having to, the wheel itself, the motor itself isn't having to push against all that gubbins and work with all the inertia and gubbins that's in the wheel base.

 And you yourself are literally just feeling exactly what the motor is putting out. Again, that was one of the big advantages with the Logitech G25, you could feel exactly what those tiny little motors were putting out without anything getting in the way of them.

 Which gives you a much better sense, in many cases, of the subtle grip loss on the tyres, on the front end of the tyres, or the point where the rear of the car is about to lose control.

 Especially when it comes to trail braking through a corner, if you're trying to be a bit more precise, which is to drive off the track. Now obviously this is a drift car, so it's not very good for actually demonstrating that snappiness and quickness.

 I'll put a Formula Rim on in a second, but at least this does demonstrate at 5Nm, there's no issue for the car to really stay one-to-one with what the sim's doing.

 Anything that's a little bit over-reacted there, I could do with popping a bit of dampening on that.

 As I say, this is quite a heavy wheel rim. Before I go to a different car, what I'm going to do here is take this one off and we'll put the Fanatec WRC wheel rim on, which is one of the wheel rims that you'd typically use with a CSL Alia.

 What you notice is, because this wheel rim is lighter than the O.M.P. Trescento with the Club Sport Universal hub, you actually can feel more of what the motor's actually putting out, and the detail of the DD wheels.

 If you've got a weaker force feedback motor, it's better to really put lighter wheel rims on your motor, because then the motor doesn't have to work as hard, there's not as much inertia, and you will feel what the car's doing a lot better.

 I think that's the thing, with the new Fanatec CSL DD, it is replacing the CSL Elite, and even the CSW. I wonder if they will do another DD wheel that supports that 10-12 Nm range.

 I'd imagine they might do, as an intermediary between the Fanatec Podium DD1 and the Fanatec Podium DD2.

 I definitely would say that 5 Nm, surprisingly, is enough to give you a really good range of force feedback, and that's with this Fanatec DD1, which is probably going to be, assuming all their marketing spiel is correct, we'll take their word on it,

 but this is probably going to operate worse at the lower strength than a wheel that is fundamentally designed out of the box to operate at lower strength, with its fundamental mechanical design, designed around accommodating the fact that it's a weaker DD motor.

 This feels awesome, and I think it's absolutely going to blow people's nipples off that haven't used a DD before.

 Okay, so over to Imola in the F2004, an absolutely fantastic car in the set of Corsa, and I'm going to be using the F1 Esports limited edition carbon wheel rim, which is a really nice formula rim. It has the Club Sport attachment on it, so it's actually quite a heavy wheel rim.

 So it'll be interesting to see what this feels like with a formula car. So again, that wheel rotation speed and snappiness is a key thing with more twitchy cars, because you're not going 900 degrees to 900 degrees, most things are happening within a small space.

 So let's make sure this is set to the max being about 5Nm, which is the max out of the box torque for the CSL DD.

 So what's nice with this car is as you go faster, it loads up more, which gives you a really good sense of speed.

 Oh, that's good, 5.7, so I need to reduce it a little bit more. I'm going to put it down to 23.

 So that should be around about 5Nm. So with this, you can still feel enough.

 So you've got the subtle variation there, and again, that is with this DD1, which is not designed to be run at this level of force feedback.

 I mean, you can obviously run it at whatever force feedback level you want, but you're really probably going to want to be going with the DD1 and DD2 and any larger direct drive wheel.

 You're going to be wanting to run them a little bit higher strength, just because you want to overcome the inertia of the wheel rims and the internal gubbins of the wheel,

 or just get a maximum out of it based off what it's designed for.

 But even then, this still feels... it is subtle, but because of the lack of dampening, there's that little fall off there for the front end going through that,

 and there is still quite a good range of feedback forces. As I say, it's not that dissimilar to a Fanatec CSL Elite,

 which I think has around about 5 or so Nm of torque as well. Maybe it's just a little bit less than that.

 But it's basically this sort of Fanatec CSL Elite strength and similar detail, but obviously with this wheel I'm using here being a direct drive wheel,

 you just don't have any of that sort of cogging or mechanical belt resistance.

 The high end, the very subtle forces are more obvious. The wheel just feels more supple and sleek.

 I'd still definitely say, you do miss out on not having that... with this DD, obviously it's probably going to be slightly different with this CSL DD,

Fanatec CSL DD 5 Nm

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