Garmin Dash Cam Mini vs Garmin Dash Cam Tandem

  • Great for leaving alone and letting run
  • Requires some work to view live and do other things
  • Good video quality
  • USB connector at camera end should be a type c
  • No usb ports at the rear of vehicle
  • Great for parking mode
  • Good quality
  • Not as easy to install as the Garmin makes it seem
  • Requires tools that the average person normally does not have

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Brand

57 works with caveats; Mini 2 is unreliable
I was hoping to avoid the bulk of another 57, but I suspect I will be making that exchange soon. — I have a Dash Cam 57 for a front camera and a Mini 2 for the rear camera, which I am returning: • 57 video quality is acceptable (can somewhat make out plates that are within a car length) • Mini 2 quality is less acceptable (unlikely to get a plate number unless placed at the bumper) • Either are better than the 67W (wide/fisheye), which makes everything seem far away—distorting distances for incident purposes—and makes identifying a plate nearly impossible at the resolution of the camera • Voice controls work well as long as you are within 3 feet and not in a downpour/on the highway/playing music/etc.; otherwise, expect to shout • Though their marketing and app would lead one to believe that there is some coordination across the up-to 4 supported cameras in “Drive”, there is no support beyond the export of picture-in-picture video—if both happened to be within earshot of you using the activation (“Garmin”/“Dash Cam”) and “Save Video” commands; otherwise you have to have a large enough memory card and hope you can go back in history to retrieve the individual camera recordings (spotty at best—many are unretrievable via the application despite showing in the history list, though they can normally be recovered using a computer) • The incident detection works [mostly], but otherwise you have to be within reach of the camera to press the record button, within earshot (as mentioned), or using the app, but this often does not connect and requires repairing, which isn’t going to happen driving down the road • This means that a camera in the back of a truck or large SUV will not work well except for incident detection (sudden deceleration/bump) or if retrieving from history (if able to) • Bluetooth connectivity (for settings) is reliable on iOS 15; WiFi (for video retrieval/live view) is completely unreliable and requires ridiculousness to work (only works on a fresh boot of the phone, after clearing pairings, and shortly after booting the cameras); did not test WiFi hotspot (for video upload) • Both caneras are the current generation so they have Garmin’s vault support, though that offering seems to provide little value—at least for my use case—and at a reasonably high cost for very short-term cloud storage; vault usage is not mandatory • Parking guard is mostly useless (with constant power from OBD2 or another 12V source) because it only detects when someone smacks into your car (low sensitivity=virtually no detections; high sensitivity=false positives and a memory card that gets filled up); if you opt for splicing/piggybacking in the parking cable, it adds a motion detector that will quickly fill your memory card (no incident recording at that point) if there is actually any volume of movement around (it is an old school/non-computer vision based solution and very inefficient) • The OBD2 power solution is decent and has settings (a physical switch) to keep the camera on for 10 minutes, 24 hours, or indefinitely after shutting off the vehicle—down to the preset low voltage level; however, the power state can get out of sync (e.g
1/5
2 years ago
amazon.com

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